White Pants Confession #smyly2018

Currently on Instagram there is a tag gaining momentum amongst the sewing community: #smyly2018

 

Sewing makes you love yourself.

 

For me, this is SO true.

 

As a teen, growing up in Australia, there were no tall retailers and it was before online shopping.

 

I truly believed there was something wrong with me, with my body, because the clothes I wanted to wear and buy did not fit me properly. They did not fit at all.

 

I was a very chubby teen, which didn't help, but being 6 feet tall meant everything was too short.

 

It wasn't until I started sewing that I realized that the problem was with the clothes, not with me. But even then, I felt somehow wrong or different because I had to make so many changes to patterns.

 

I have a rare congenital bone defect in my lower left leg (congenital pseudarthrosis, which caused a non union in my fibula and bow & fracture in the tibia). So my left leg is 2.5 cm (1 inch) shorter than my right leg. My hips are uneven, which makes fitting pants really difficult. I would do my best to hide this "flaw" in the way I dress and stand. I even avoided wearing a belt because it drew focus to how uneven my hips were (which was ridiculous, sometimes you need a belt to hold your pants up!).

 

I would never wear light colours on my lower half because I thought it drew attention to my uneven hips and was not flattering to my pear shape.

 

Fast forward to a few years ago and I came across the blog Pretty Tall Style by the fabulous Tanasha. She made beautiful clothes and she was tall. Tanasha talked about the modifications she made to patterns to fit her tall frame in a straight forward and matter of fact way, because that's what you do to make a pattern fit you.

 

It was like a light went on for me! Of course it was normal to make adjustments. Why did I see that so clearly for someone else, but for myself I still felt a bit "not normal" about it.

 

Then I got on Instagram and the seeing all the adjustments and fitting issues of marvellous women of all shapes and sizes was like a shining light and Hallelujah chorus from heaven. EVERYONE has fit issues! Everyone!

 

I already had a good sense of style that suited me and worked for my body. Sewing made me focus further on fit and really changed my thinking from "my body isn't right for that skirt/trouser/dress" to "that clothing item isn't right for my body".

 

It was a small but powerful shift.

 

The problem was not me. The clothes were not right for me.

 

This shift in thinking encouraged me to challenge my thoughts about what I could & could not wear. I always loved the look of white pants on others, women of all shapes and sizes. So why did I think I couldn't wear them?

 

I decided to make myself a pair. To be honest, the pattern I used did not suit my body so I had 3 attempts at getting them right (with long frustrated breaks in between!) but I finally got there.

 

They are not perfect. With my uneven hips & leg length discrepancy getting a perfect fit is beyond my capabilities currently, but the pants are comfortable and wearable. One of my sewing goals for 2018 is to create a pants block for my body, which means drafting each side sperately to accommodate my wonky shape.

 

Sewing has helped me accept my body for what it is. Honestly, I'm lucky just to have my leg as most people with my condition have had the limb amputated in childhood. When I remind myself of that, a few pull lines on a pair of pants really aren't a big deal!

 

Happy Sewing!
Xox Allison

 

Left: you can see my uneven shape
Right: how I always stand to even up my hips!

The Big Reveal! #SewTallandCreative2017

Here it is!  My dress entry for the #SewTallandCreative2017 competition hosted by MARGE Clothing and Tall Guides.

Before we talk about the dress, I'd just like to say that I truly feel honoured to be selected to take part.  Yes, that sounds a bit like an Academy Awards speech, except that I really mean it.  Being part of this challenge tested my design and sewing skills.  It encouraged me to work with fabrics I wasn't as comfortable sewing and to make and design a dress which made the most of the quantity of fabric provided.  Although I had periods of indecision, worry and second guessing myself on the whole I loved the entire experience.  More importantly I LOVE my dress!  I love the weight of the fabrics, I love the way it swishes when I walk (you can't help but add a little swagger!!) and I love how I feel wearing it.  And isn't that what Tall Guides and MARGE is all about?  Feeling confident and beautiful in our tall bodies?!

So without further ado, here is my dress!  The challenge required we use 2 fabrics generously gifted by MARGE.  All MARGE fabrics are ethically made in Europe & USA.  To make the most of the divine fabrics I made my dress reversible.  Two dresses in one!  The dress pulls on over my head and doesn't have a zip or buttons.  I based my design on the Sweet Summertime Dress by Sew To Grow.  I've made this dress before, so knew the bodice fit.  I did modify the skirt of the dress by making it fuller and longer and making the front pleats bigger.  I added pleats to the back of the skirt for extra fullness & swish.  I made the hem of the skirt longer in the back so you could see the underneath fabric better, this also gives more swish when you walk.  With the gorgeous drape of these fabrics, I was all about the swish factor!   

I love the how you can see the silk layer underneath as the dress moves!
Please ignore the patch on my arm; it's for pain medication.

As I move the silk shows at the hem which adds such a pretty detail.

The weight of these fabrics make the dress SO swishy!

 

Just look at the movement in that skirt & the way the satin shines!

Swish!

Due to fabric restrictions I had to put a seam in the back of the silk layer,
but the movement wasn't effected.

Just look at that movement!

 

I'm so pleased I opened the front of the silk layer to show the gorgeous satin underneath.

I added a little tie belt to tie in (pun only a little bit intended)
the satin trim around the neck & sleeves.

I love the way this dress hangs and feels!

 

So there it is!  My entry for #SewTallandCreative2017 
I'm very proud of it!

Please check out the other fabulous ladies: 
Beth at www.sewdiy.com
Janet at www.diywardrobe.co.uk
Tiffany at www.prettytallsewnsew.com

Thank you for following my progress in this challenge!  xox Allison

#SewTallAndCreative2017 Sewing Process

This challenge is really speeding along!

I am about half way into making my dress for #SewTallAndCreative2017 hosted by MARGE and Tall Guides. 

I am making my dress out of the gorgeous dotty silk over the peach satin.  In my last post I was still tossing around design ideas but I really love the 2 fabrics together.  My design is still changing and evolving as I sew, which is such a fun part of the creative process. 

Typically I would advise someone to make a muslin of their design (a mock up in cheap fabric), which I haven't done in this case.  We don't always follow our own good advice, do we?!  However, by working with the fabrics as I go I feel a little more free to make changes based on how they hang on my body.

Thus far, I have used French Seams in the satin to give a beautiful finish.  For those who don't sew (yet!) they are essentially seams which double over on themselves. They're twice as much work but well worth it! I am finding sewing the silk (dotty fabric) a massive challenge. Working with this fabric is far out of my comfort zone and really testing my sewing skills. It's great that this competition is really stretching both my creativity and skill, I just hope it doesn't turn out to be a hot mess!

The bodice of my dress is very simple.  It's based on a pattern I've used a couple of times before (see here) so I know I don't need to make major changes as I don't have a large bust or very long torso...all my extra length is from the waist down!

For the skirt of my dress I've gone with as much fullness as the fabric I had on hand would allow.  I'm still tossing around ideas of how I'll really show off the beautiful satin underneath the silk layer.  I am not usually an indecisive person AT ALL but there are just so many options I'm not sure which is the best to go with!

The final reveal of my dress will be 20th May, so stay tuned!

Check out the progress of the other fabulous ladies who are participating:

Beth at www.sewdiy.com
Janet at www.diywardrobe.co.uk
Tiffany at www.prettytallsewnsew.com

Happy sewing & wish me luck!
 

The silk is just gorgeous over the peach satin. 
I'm being careful & using lots of pins, something I rarely do!

These strips will be ironed into bias binding, which may be used around the neckline.

 

 

Talk about cutting it close!!  I had only a tiny handful of scraps left after cutting the silk. 
There is NO room for error here people!!

#SewTallAndCreative2017 Concept/Initial Design Process

After so much back and forth it was getting ridiculous, I have selected 2 fabrics.  The peach satin & the sheer pink silk. 

My design process changes as I sew, as things do or do not work out as I see them in my head.  My design is a work in progress!  On IG I said I would spare you anymore of my stick figures...but as that is the extent of my design drawing ability, here's another on! (Forgive me!!!). 

I will post updates on IG as the construction gets underway and I either continue with this style or modify it.  Or worst case, have to go with plan B which uses the divine printed lace with the peach fabric (which I'll no doubt end up making anyway, because the fabric is too beautiful to sit on the shelf!).

Happy Sewing! 

I hope there's a prize for design drawings, because this is clearly a winner!!! 

#SewTallAndCreative2017 Inspiration & Intention

I find inspiration in many places; from RTW (ready to wear) clothing I see online & in stores, from the fabulous & fashionable I follow on IG (I'm sure that includes you!) to the gorgeous vintage patterns that I hoard collect, my favourites being the 1950's & 60's.

Inspiration can also come from gorgeous fabrics.  You can look at and fondle (I know that sounds a bit creepy but anyone who sews gets it!) fabric and envisage the garment it could become.

When I received the box of gorgeous fabrics from MARGE my mind went into overdrive.  My original thoughts for a design went out the window as they didn't lend themselves to the soft drapey goodness of these fabrics.  Also, part of the challenge is to use 2 different fabrics which adds another creative element to my typically basic style. 

Although I've not yet settled on a design, I know I will stick to elements that are consistent with my personal style and flatter my shape, such as a full or A line skirt at or below the knee, defined waist and fitted bodice.  That leaves things pretty wide open, doesn't it?!  Yep...hence my challenge! 

Here are a few style ideas I have been bouncing around (images from Google Images):

Love the lace sleeves here!

Love the sleeves & skirt fullness!

Love the sheer top and defined waist!

This dress just looks like it would
swish when you walk!

 

Love, love, love! Just need to
figure out how to make it!

Hmmm...there is a pretty common theme there!! 

I will update you with my design ideas when I figure out how to best incorporate 2 gorgeous fabrics. 

Please feel free to make any suggestions, all helpful ideas welcome!

First Make of 2017! B6333

Happy New Year!

Despite the busy past couple of months (turning 40, best friend visiting from New York, Christmas, school holidays etc) I did manage to squeeze in some sewing.

My first make of the year is Butterick 6333, a classic shirt dress.

Overall experience:

The pattern says that it's easy, and it is.  Maybe not for a beginner, but an easy sew for those with some experience and a good way to learn new skills (collar and buttons) for newbies.

My adjustments:

I added 23 cm (9 inches) to the skirt length as I wanted it to hit below the knee.  Based on my measurements I added 1.5cm to the bodice length, however had to remove it.  Then I entered a sizing parallel universe...I cut out the size which corresponded with my measurements but it was huge!  I ended up taking out about 5cm (2 inches) on either side and bringing in the shoulders 2cm (almost an inch) as they hung off my reasonably average shoulders. 

Does this happen to anyone else?  You cut out your size based on the pattern measurements, but then it's huge?  Oh well, better too big than too small I guess!

Fabric used:

I used a gifted cotton lawn.  The fabric is very lightweight so I lined the front of the bodice (not in the instructions).  I possibly would have lined the skirt, but ran out of lining fabric!  After having worn it, I think it's fine without lining.

Would I make it again?:

Yes.  I love the timeless classic style and it has pockets (which, as you know, I add to just about everything but it was nice they were part of the design!).  Despite all the adjustments I had to make it was worth it and will be much smoother sewing next time. 

Happy Sewing!!

MaaiDesign Blog Tour - The Bondi Top Pattern Hack

Hello Everyone!

I'm thrilled to be part of the MaaiDesign blog tour again!  This time highlighting a gorgeous new range of rayon fabrics "See You At Six". 

This fabric is not only gorgeous, but was really lovely to sew.  It did not come out of the wash all wrinkly and held creases when ironed beautifully.  I didn't even need to pin the hem once I'd ironed up the hem allowance... yay!

Can we talk about how great the drape is??  So flattering and soft to wear.  I'm a big fan!

To make the most of this soft comfy fabric I made The Bondi Top by Sew To Grow into a dress.  I've made 3 of these tops and love them.  To turn it into a dress I simply made it longer, yep it was just that easy!  I also added patch pockets, because when aren't pockets a good idea?!   

I used French Seams because fabric as lovely as this deserved a nice seam finish! 

I am so happy with how the dress turned out!  I've styled it a couple of different ways but know I will also be wearing it with tights and a scarf for winter.  Don't you just love pieces that work for all seasons?!

Pockets!  They make everything better in my book!

I love how The Bondi Top is longer in the back,
I kept it that way for the dress too.

 

I love it belted, looks a little more dressy! 
Forgive the shifty side eye I'm giving the cat!

 

This is how I wore the dress the day
Hubs took the pics as it was still a bit chilly!

 

So you can enjoy the delicious drapey goodness MaaiDesign is offering you a 10% discount on the See You At Six collection from 12th – 30th September 2016.  Simply use the code: seeyouatsix.


Be sure to check out the other fabulous creations with the See You At Six rayon:

 

12th of September: Shelley from Bartacks and Singletrack
13th of September: Kate from Sewing With Kate
14th of September: Nicola from Create.nic
15th of September: Anna from Blogless Anna
16th of September: Caroline from Usefulbox
17th of September: Suz from Sewpony
18th of September: Allison from The Tall Mama
19th of September: Toni from Make It Perfect
20th of September: Suzanne from Dressed in Pretty Little Things
21st of September: Natalie from Sew Outnumbered
22nd of September: Jenya from While She Was Sleeping
23rd of September: Maaike from MaaiDesign

Pattern Review: Meridan Knit Dress, by Sew To Grow

The very lovely Lindsey of Sew To Grow asked me to pattern test one of her latest creations, the Meridan Knit Dress.

Now, I don't have the best history with knit fabric. It scares me and doesn't behave itself.  I have only made 2 successful pieces with knits (see here and here)... not a great track record!  However, I decided to face my fear and give this pattern a try.  This is the ONLY knit dress I have made that did not result in cold sweats and a volley of profanity, I consider that a huge win!

The dress has 2 neckline options, 3 sleeve options and 2 hem line options... oh happy days!

I made a round neck (I did raise it about 2 cm) with short sleeves and a straight hem.  I added 3 cm length to the bodice (will add a little less next time) and about 5 cm to the hem.

This dress came together easily and quickly.  The all in one facing means you get a beautiful neckline without having to stress yourself out over neck binding (I'm possibly the only one stressed out by neck binding).

This is a great dress for beginners, and for those more experienced it's one of those easy patterns you can make up quickly and know you're going to get a great result.

I love this dress, oh and it has pockets!!!  I will be making more.  I almost feel like I can sew with knits now... almost...I think I need to make a few more first!

 

Adding Length to Sleeves: DIY

Okay, so I'm revealing some wardrobe shame here....  I've been wearing this coat for years.  I bought it because it was on sale, I love the colour, it was on sale, it's weather & toddler proof and did I mention it was on sale?!

At the time of the purchase my arms were the same length they are now... yet I still bought it although it was way too short in the sleeves.  Sleeves are kind of an important part of a coat!

I finally decided it was time to do something about it, thanks in part to being given some knit fabric which is almost the same gorgeous colour of my coat!  This is such a simple DIY that I'm ashamed it took me so long to do it!

Here's how:

Take a rectangle of fabric the width of your cuff opening + seam allowance (1.5cm) x 2 the length you want the new cuff to be.

Sew up the side seam, right sides together, and fold in half.  Tuck the 2 raw edges (knits don't fray so you can just leave them) inside the coat sleeve and sew around end of sleeve.  Done!  As the fabric cuffs I added were knit fabric, I stretched them a little for a snug fit.  My wrists will finally be warm!

Before... hello wrists!

After... warm wrists!

Faux Shirt Dress - Maai Designs Blog Tour

This week I'm joining the fabulous Maai Designs blog tour.

As part of the blog tour Maai Designs are generously offering you a discount!  Use the code: maaidesign10%. This will give you a 10% discount, valid until March 26th 2016.

I bought the beautiful Forrest Treasures fabric in soft blue.  It's 100% soft cotton and is 145cm wide. It is such beautiful fabric!  Importantly, it is Oeko-Tex certified (read more about that here).

I overlooked the width of the fabric when ordering so had way more than I needed for the Oakridge shirt by Sewaholic Patterns which I originally planned to make.  What to do, what to do?  The answer was obvious... shirt dress!

For the bottom half of the dress I used the fabulous Noosa Shift Dress by Sew To Grow.  I've made this one 3 times now so knew it would be perfect.  I love shirt dresses, however I do not love how they tend to gape when you sit.  To overcome this I made it a faux shirt dress by sewing the button placket closed. 



Admiring my sleeve length!!

 

A close up of the beautiful fabric!

I am so happy with the results!  This is not only a beautiful shirt dress, but will be something I can wear year round.

Be sure to check out Maai Designs and the others on the tour:

March 8th - Suz from Sewpony

March 9th - Caroline from Usefulbox

March 10th - Kate from Sewing With Kate

March 12th - Suzanne from Dressed in Pretty Little Things

March 13th - Toni from Make It Perfect

March 14th - Natalie from Sew Outnumbered

March 15th - Jenya from While she was sleeping 

March 16th - Nicola from Create.nic

March 17th - Shelley from Bartacks and Singletrack

March 18th - Maaike from MaaiDesign

Noosa Shift Dress by Sew To Grow

Hello!

If you haven't checked out Sew To Grow patterns you really must!  They are great for beginner seamstresses and an enjoyable quick make for those with some experience. 

Today I'm wearing the Noosa Shift Dress with a slight modification.  The pattern comes with flutter sleeves or sleeveless variations.  I made a slight cap sleeve by extending the shoulder about 3cms and I love it!  I also added 5cm just above the waist line (cause I'm tall!).  Oh, and the best part of this pattern is that it comes with the most perfect sized pockets (which, as you know, I usually add in anyway!). 

The fabric I used was a home made table cloth I found at a second hand shop - it's a lovely soft cotton and I couldn't resist the pretty floral. 

This pattern was gifted to me by Sew To Grow but all opinions are my own.

Me Make Remake.

What's a "Me Make Remake" you ask?!

It's when you make something, are not happy with it, never wear it, so you remake it!  Also case in point as to why you should make a muslin (practice version out of cheap fabric) first! 

Original version of the dress

I made this dress 6 months ago and despite loving the fabric, I only wore it once.  The neckline was too open and weird for my shape.  And the sleeves were just a bit too much with this big graphic print.  You can see the original dress here. 


To remake it I simply cut the front bodice out (the dress was also a bit too big so I had plenty of fabric to work with) and cut a new front bodice using New Look pattern 6262.  I chopped off the sleeves, but kept them in case I decide to reattach them come Autumn (perhaps I should just call this the "Indecision Dress"??!).  I finished the sleeve opening with bias tape. 


And Ta da!  A dress I have already worn twice in the past few weeks! 

New and improved dress!

 

Teamed with a cardigan for Church
Photos c/o my wonderful Husband

Vintage Pattern Maxi Skirt

If you follow me on Instagram you would have seen just a tiny portion of my vintage pattern stash.

I love vintage patterns!  I love the cover illustrations, I love the styles and I love wondering about the previous owners.  What did they make?  Which fabric did they use?  Did they ever imagine that 45 years later someone would be making the exact same skirt using their old pattern??



This fabulous 1973 McCall's pattern maxi skirt has been on my "to make" list for awhile. 

I was truly amazed to discover that I had to cut 2.5cm off the bottom!  I did!  Me!  The ladies in the 70's must have been rocking some massive platforms if I, at 6ft tall, had to shorten it!! The only other adjustment I made was to reduce the width of the waistband, it was just too wide for my liking.







The fabric I used was found at an op shop.  I paid 50 cents for 9.6 metres of it!  Bargain!  It's a simple cotton that is perfect for the hot weather.  I also found the zip for 10 cents and the button is a vintage wooden button which was gifted to me.  Seriously, this has to be the cheapest skirt ever!!

I used a vintage wooden button.
This is not a good invisible zip insertion;
I use a vintage machine which doesn't have an invisible zip foot!

New Look 6262 Dress

Hello!

I have been itching to use more of the beautiful fabric generously gifted to me by Marge Clothing (read more here).  They are so gorgeous I wanted to use them for something special.  When a close friend of my Husband invited us to his 40th birthday luncheon I knew I needed a new dress!

I used New Look pattern 6262 with the following modifications:

I added length to the skirt (standard for me!)
I lowered the neckline by 1.5cm, which may have been a mistake because I then had to take it up at the shoulders by 2.5cm!  I am not amply blessed in the bust department so the front gaped by my shoulders.
I inserted a regular lapped zip, rather than invisible zip.  I use a vintage sewing machine which does not have an invisible zipper foot.

It's an easy to sew pattern and I know I will be using it again.  And again!

Now lets talk fabric!  A good pattern is important, but the fabric makes it truly special!  This dress is lined, or really more of a hack where I sewed 2 layers together and pretended it was one layer.  I have possibly made some experienced seamstresses cringe, however this was the easiest way for me to wrap my brain around making it work.  I don't have much (any!) experience sewing with sheer fabric.

The top layer is a beautiful red and purple sheer and the layer beneath is a lush purple satin.  It feels AMAZING against my skin.  Have you ever put something on and just wanted to roll around in it because it feels so nice?  No?  Just me??!  I suspect this is how I would feel in any of the gorgeous pieces from the Marge RTW line!  The fabrics are incredible and more importantly, ethically sourced!

This fabric would have been gorgeous for evening wear.  However I can't remember the last time I needed evening wear, it was long before I became a Mama!  This is a dress I know I will wear a lot!

If you have special fabric in your fabric stash I say use it, wear it, love it!

Dress New Look Pattern 6262 ; Fabric c/o MARGE Clothing

Necklaces: Tiffany & Co
On Mama duty - fixing Miss 4's hair!



After the party - girls wanted their balloons in the photo too!
Photos c/o my wonderful Husband